Munich:
| From Euro 2010: Germany and Beyond |
Friday afternoon was our last night in Freiburg. Bright and early Saturday morning the Pike guys and I set out for Munich. We had a brief change over, but all in all it was a smooth ride. Fully packed down with all of my belongings in my backpack this was the first time that I wish I had packed a little lighter, the luxury of having a home base was now gone, I was essentially on my own once again in Europe. We arrived in the late afternoon and spent the evening exploring the city center. Munich is a beautiful, clean city with a rich history and elegant pedestrian shopping districts. The town hall has one of the most entertaining clocks I’ve witnessed in all of Europe. Three times a day (9, 11 and 5 o’clock) various figurines dance to the chiming of bells for more than 5 minutes. The display consists of a Bavarian and French knight jousting on horseback, after two or three go-arounds, much to the crowd’s pleasure, the Bavarian knight knocks the French knight off of his horse. The defeat is then celebrated on a level below with a cooper’s dance to keep away the plague. We just happen to come across this spectacle as we passed through the Marien Platz square. After a bite to eat we retired to our hostel, Wombats, for a few drinks at the bar and some World Cup Soccer.
| From Euro 2010: Germany and Beyond |
Sunday morning we got up at a reasonable hour and made the trek out to the Dachau Concentration Camp in the Munich suburbs. It was honestly one of the most powerful experiences I have had in Europe as of yet. We wandered through the museum which was the former maintenance building originally built by prisoner labor. Dachau was the first of countless concentration and extermination camps across central and eastern Europe. Upon arrival you walk through an iron gate with “Work will set you free” (in German) written in the bars. Officially, these camps were meant to instill work-ethic and values in its dissident residents. Dachau was not a death camp (Auschwitz was the camp for that) it provided a forum for inferior ethnicities and political prisoners to serve as the labor force behind the Nazi government and later the war effort. To outsiders (based off of propagandist news paper clippings displayed in the museum) the camp was there to protect good Germans from bad influences and few knew how horrible the conditions truly were until it was liberated by the allied forces. Occasionally the camp officers would open the camp to corporate executives (using the labor) and party leaders to show how the work and good living conditions were indeed helping Germany retrain her lost infidels. This of course is where the happy little news articles came from. The camp layout consisted of a large central building overlooking two columns of barracks about 10 deep. The barracks were 10 meters wide and 100 meters long with bunk rooms and large enough to maybe fit 50 people in each room stacked 4 shelves high. Two of the barracks have been recreated, all that remains of the other bunk houses in their raised gravel foundations. The planned capacity was around 6,000 people but by the end of the war there were easily double that in the compound. Surround the facility was a 15 foot high electric fence with barbwire along its interior, about every 200 yards or so there was a guard tower which housed a trigger happy SS guard ready to snipe anyone that got too close. On the other side of the fence was a mote like canal and the crematorium. The ovens used to burn the remains of the dead (often from starvation and disease) are still fully intact, for years they ran continuously but at the end of the war due to the shortage of coal bodies were pretty much just piled up or thrown into makeshift graves. The crematorium was a stark reminder that the holocaust truly did occur and its scars still run deep in modern Europe.
| From Euro 2010: Germany and Beyond |
After our exploration of the Camp we made our way back into town. Germany played England that evening and much to our delight, England lost. People were celebrating into the night, but not on the scale of madness we witnessed in Freiburg. That evening we made our way to the Houfbrau Haus for a beer in one of Germany’s most famous brew houses. It was here that Hitler actually made some of his first campaign speeches, and where the Nazi movement really began to take hold. Complete with beer maids, a band decked out in lederhosen and 1 liter steins of pilsner this establishment truly is a tourist Mecca. After Houfbrau we went back to the hostel and spent the evening playing pool and enjoying the late night happy hour. The next morning the Pike guys left bright and early for home via Frankfurt I was left on my own for the day, Nick was to arrive the following morning.
| From Euro 2010: Germany and Beyond |
On my day alone in Munich I made my way over to the Olympic park and BMW complex. Since it was Monday, the museum was closed so I hiked around the park and went up in the Olympic Tower (think Seattle Space Needle). It was a pretty slow day honestly, the view from the top of the tower was spectacular and I was able to see where the Munich Massacre took place, but all the museums are closed on Mondays so there was not a whole lot to do. I ended up just walking through the English Gardens (really big Central Park) and wandering down the ritzy part of town. Made it back to the hostel worn out from hours of walking and retired for the evening.
Tuesday morning Nick Averwater arrived in Munich, his plane landed around 8:00 am and I was expecting a phone call from him to wake me up, but my service was horrible in the room and I eventually woke up to a later text message. I met up with nick in the lobby ate breakfast and showered then set out for the day. I pretty much took him where I had been the day before. We tried to get a tour of the BMW plant, but they were sold out of English tours and I just don’t think a tour in German would be worth it. So we explored BMW world and the museum. The World is a delivery showroom, event and expo center. In the World they had all the new models on display along with exhibits on new
technologies such as hydrogen vehicles. Across the street is the BWM Museum.
| From Euro 2010: Germany and Beyond |
It traced the history of BMW from a WWI aviation company to its current position as a automobile manufacture. They had motorcycles and cars dating back to the 1920s and everywhere between. One of my favorites was the Z8 used in the James Bond Film: The World is not Enough. You may remember it as being cut in half by a giant saw halfway through the movie. I inquired about this slicing and the guide assured me that a model was used in the film production. So now seeing as I have toured the plant in Spartanburg, South Carolina and visited the headquarters in Munich, I can safely assert that I have consumed more BMW propaganda than the average person. After BMW we hopped back on the metro and walked through the English Gardens. There we had a beer and some food at The Chinese Tower Beer Garden (One of the largest Beer Gardens in the World). We finished the afternoon following the river through the garden down to the end where the people surf. Yes, there is a fast and constant wave over some rocks coming out of an inner city canal that produces a large wave. I had never heard of city surfing before but now I had.
| From Euro 2010: Germany and Beyond |
We made it back to the hostel just in time for a few Happy Hour beers and a few games of pool. Seeing as Nick was jet lagged and we had a 9:01 train in the morning going out wasn’t on the agenda. Well for better or worse we were coaxed into going on a pub crawl. The crawl itself was nothing to excited but we ended up hanging out with some people from just about every English speaking country. We met some girls from Australia, Canada and England the company was great. The “crawl” consisted of going to this sketchy hole in the wall bar half way across town. We stayed at the hole in the while for quite some time and then “headed out.” Our first stop was the Haufbrau House which was fine, but it was one of the only places I had been before. We then went to an Irish Pub and then back to the Hostel. In all it was a pretty lame crawl, but we met some fun people. A hot train ride to Prague awaited us the next day.
Posting soon… Prague
- J. Ryan Sowell


